Paddling - Trying to Surf in Rincon Puerto Rico

This is embarrassing and telling.   I knew paddling was important.  I know everyone yells "digg" and "dale" but i did not realize the significance of the paddle into the wave until someone randomly said to me "you need to paddle to catch up to the speed of the wave".  Shit!!!   I am so crazy (aka dumb) ....... I wondered why people didn't just sit and wait for the wave to break on them to catch it.   Because you can not catch a wave if it simply breaks on you.   You have to get in front of it - match the speed to ride it!!!  Brilliant.   As soon as this swell (picture above) passes thru i look forward to trying this new discovery.  I still am having a blast surfing in Rincon Puerto Rico even doing it completely ass backwards!!!