I am living full time in Rincon, but there are lots of Rincon Tourist Vacations going on this March 2011.   It has been a challenge surfing with all the vacationers.  That makes it funny to say March 1st 2011 was the day i caught my first rides.  I went out once in the AM and rode two waves.  It was a blast.  So I went out later in the PM and again i was able to ride a wave.   So maybe all the tourists brought me good luck?   Nay, i think it is like every experienced surfer says ..... it just takes time in the water.   

As it dies down around Rincon in the next few months i hope to blog better this March surfing experience ... but for now I wanted to document the date.

I have more luck doing the Boarding House 'crawl' pop up (mentioned in a previous post).   But, for me, surfing is the smallest of advances.   To say i have more luck with the 'crawl' pop up means i can do the 1st of the many parts of it.  I can get my feet on the board, but i can not balance.  Even when i crawl pop up at home on the yoga mat (with ink markings on the mat to denote where my feet should land) or when i crawl pop up on the board on the bed - i fall over once my feet get to the board.  I actually feel off the board/bed and landed on my ass once!   However!  getting my feet (the soles) on the board is a huge accomplishment for me.   I have been able to catch waves in the Ocean.  If i stay squatted i 'ride' them a bit.   I actually dropped down the face of the wave the other day at Pistones (in between Maria's & Tres Palmas).  But all in all, if the wave is over 2ft i chicken out.  Getting some balls is definitely a surfing hurdle for me on my quest to surf in puerto rico.

I recommend trying to crawl pop up if you are having trouble popping up.  Again, it was told to me by an experience and big wave surfer.  I need to paddle out into the line up with him and watch him do it.  Because I almost don't believe anymore experienced does a crawl pop up.

Still Trying

even though i haven't been posting i have most certainly been trying to surf. i am getting lots of encouragement from established surfers. just yesterday a surfer i have never seen before said "i have seen you out here before, you sure are dedicated" ... and then he proceeded to give me some tips. i have found nothing but generous and helpful surfers in the Rincon water. i'm sure if i was out on bigger days i might encounter some "out of the way" yells ... and they would be justified.

so my current situation is i have no issue paddling or catching a wave - my issue is with the popup. looking back on it, most of my instructors must have assumed i knew how to popup because no one took me thru the LAND POPUP EXERCISE you see so many doing.

i have gotten two popup techniques i need a few more times in the water to evaluate - and i imagine both will be helpful and depending on your muscles or lack of both work for different people

1st is from Surf787 and it is the 'arms under/beside shoulders - push chest up - feet on the board - popup with feet under you'

2nd is from The Boarding House and it is the 'arms under/beside shoulders - push chest up AT THE same time bring your back leg (leg leash is on) up to a frog position - using 2 hands and 1 leg/foot as 3 point stabilization on the board - putting the frog leg/foot where ever you feel needed for the size wave - popup with feet under you'

i'll let you know.